Succulent Kebabs, Fragrant Biryani and Much More: Indian City Secures a Place on the UNESCO Culinary List.
Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.